I was looking for a laser cutter/engraver to enable me to
add a little polish to some of my projects and add new capabilities. When
looking at capabilities I knew I wanted one with all options: air assist, power
Z-axis (table), good DSP controller. Looking at the machines that have
all of this capability and the prices start around $3K. I started looking
for a cheaper alternative and, like many others, decided to start with the
"cheap Chinese laser" K40. I went into this fully aware of its
shortcomings, and planned accordingly. I
bought one off of eBay for < $800 delivered.
The most important part of this was to make sure it has a
PWM capable power supply as I wanted to keep that. If you are looking, make sure the PSU looks
like the one available on the LightObject site or the ones that typically come with the newer K40 machines.
40W Laser PSU that comes with newer K40 laser machines |
Perusing the various
build sights I decided on a shopping spree at LightObject.com. I got:
- DSP upgrade kit for D/K40 small machine
- Power table/bed for K40 small laser machine
- Mini 2 Phase 1.5A 1-axis Stepping Motor Driver to drive the power table
- 2412S DC-DC 12V (2watt) Isolated Power Module to drive a 12V fan
I then did a little shopping on Amazon to beef up the air
extract and add some lighting:
- Ledwholesalers 16 Ft 5 Meter Under Cabinet Lighting NaturalWhite LED Flexible Ribbon 300 3528 Leds, 2026nw to light the cabinet
- HitLights LED PCB Strip to Strip Connector, 2 Conductor, AnyAngle Turn, For SMD3528 LED Strip Lights (4 Pcs Pack) to connect the LEDs across the case corners
- Ledwholesalers 30 Watt LED Power Suppply Driver Transformer120 to 12 Volt DC Output, 3207 to power the LEDs
- Rule 240 Marine Bilge Blower (4-Inch, Inline) to beef up the air extract
- Sabrent AD-LCD12 LCD Monitors 12V 6A 72W AC Adapter PowerSupply to run the bilge blower
- Dundas Jafine FD420ZW Flexible White Vinyl Duct, 4-Inches by20-Feet to route to window vent
Then I hit up Home Depot for some venting accessories:
- Deflect-o Skinny Duct 4 in. Dryer Venting Duct for making a window vent
- 4” dryer clamps (4)
- 1/8” x 12” x 24” Plexiglas to replace god-awful orange one
- Watts 1/4 in. x .170 in. x 20 ft. PVC Tubing for the air assist
Then finally to Harbor Freight:
- 1/6 Horsepower, 58 PSI Oilless Airbrush Compressor for the air assist.
Plus various bits and pieces like heat shrink, proto board,
metric screws, tacos, wire, more wire, cable ties, masking tape, bandages,
spare lenses and mirrors, beer, you name it.
Needless to say, I was a little bit above $800 by now, but still well
below the $3k mark. If you look at this
list you’ll notice I don’t have anything for water cooling. Right now I’m using 4 gallons of distilled
water in a Home Depot bucket but will be upgrading to a PC type water cooling
solution.
As part of all of my research, I compiled a list of useful
documents from people that have “been there, done that” with the K40. I started with the install guide from Marco
at the LightObject forums. I also found a handy wiring diagram that made
wiring up the DSP box a breeze.
Next up will be the unboxing and teardown.
Hi,
ReplyDeleteI'm wondering how the harbor freight air compressor is working for you as an air assist.
I don't use this for "production" work, so I can't say I've stressed it. The unit itself still works as it did when I took it out of the box. It's a little loud, but that's why I'm moving it to the garage. :)
ReplyDeleteDan, thanks for getting back to me. When I connected that very same air compressor to my own laser cutter, I wasn't getting a good stream of air from the cutting head, so I was concerned that it wouldn't have enough "oomph" to make any significant difference in my cutting. Do you notice a significant difference between cutting with and without the compressor hooked up?
DeleteYou don't really need much. You can see it push smoke away from the cut (which can reduce edge charring from a defocused beam), but the main reason is to keep the smoke and other crud from coming back up the nozzle and gumming up your focusing lens, so it's more a preventative measure IMO. When I cut I can see it pushing away the smoke from the cut and on wood can see most of the smoke actually exiting more on the bottom side.
DeleteOkay. Thank you very much for helping me out, Dan. I appreciate it.
Delete